Ester Restaurant

Brilliant, produce-driven food kissed by the wood-fired oven and served alongside some of the best wines on the planet. The list leans in the direction of Italy but there’s representation from France, Austria, Australia, and other natural-wine hotspots. Their wine team often hides away stock and rereleases it with some maturity, lending character to the wines. Get a late lunch reservation for Sunday—when Sydney’s in-the-know eat here—and keep an eye out for rarities from lesser-known wine regions. These are often the crown jewels of the list, eked out in small releases to the Australian market.