Phil’s guidebook to Pula, Istria and beyond
City/town information
Pula is a working city so of course while it is busier during the summer months, out of season it always has people coming and going about their business, so it has a good atmosphere. It's a 10 minute drive from Suncaliste or you can can get the local bus from Pjescana Uvala. There are some shops in the city, but many are on the ring road around Pula. Pula city is really about the roman ruins - the amazing amphitheatre and other roman ruins like the Temple in the main city square. You are never far from the water in Pula, with views over the shipyard and out towards the islands.
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Pula
Pula is a working city so of course while it is busier during the summer months, out of season it always has people coming and going about their business, so it has a good atmosphere. It's a 10 minute drive from Suncaliste or you can can get the local bus from Pjescana Uvala. There are some shops in the city, but many are on the ring road around Pula. Pula city is really about the roman ruins - the amazing amphitheatre and other roman ruins like the Temple in the main city square. You are never far from the water in Pula, with views over the shipyard and out towards the islands.
– The most famous view of Istria. Wonderful
Venetian architecture, stunning harbour. Art galleries
galore. Walk through the stunning town up to St.
Euphemia Church. If you are OK with heights and an old
rickety staircase then walk up the bell tower. Great
views. Lovely restaurants. To the South of the Town as
you look on a map, are the best beaches. Lovely coves,
great swimming with views towards the town. Best
place to park to access these beaches is by the Hotel
Lone – a new 5 star Boutique hotel just outside the main town. If you only do one trip during your stay, I would suggest Rovinj.
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Rovinj
– The most famous view of Istria. Wonderful
Venetian architecture, stunning harbour. Art galleries
galore. Walk through the stunning town up to St.
Euphemia Church. If you are OK with heights and an old
rickety staircase then walk up the bell tower. Great
views. Lovely restaurants. To the South of the Town as
you look on a map, are the best beaches. Lovely coves,
great swimming with views towards the town. Best
place to park to access these beaches is by the Hotel
Lone – a new 5 star Boutique hotel just outside the main town. If you only do one trip during your stay, I would suggest Rovinj.
Another lovely harbour town. This is the main holiday area so quite a few 70’s hotels on the outskirts many of which look much nicer inside than out. The harbour area is lovely and there is a good shopping area with plenty of restaurants and bars. While there be sure to visit the Euprasian Basilica in Porec . The church has amazing gold frescoes, the bell tower is worth a climb for lovely views, there are ancient relics and stunning mosaics.
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Poreč
Another lovely harbour town. This is the main holiday area so quite a few 70’s hotels on the outskirts many of which look much nicer inside than out. The harbour area is lovely and there is a good shopping area with plenty of restaurants and bars. While there be sure to visit the Euprasian Basilica in Porec . The church has amazing gold frescoes, the bell tower is worth a climb for lovely views, there are ancient relics and stunning mosaics.
Punta Christo is an old derelict Fort built in the late 1800's, more recently the location for Outlook and Dimensions Music Events. It's still an interesting walk around the headland and also the location for the Lost Bay Beach Bar
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Fort Punta Christo
Punta Christo is an old derelict Fort built in the late 1800's, more recently the location for Outlook and Dimensions Music Events. It's still an interesting walk around the headland and also the location for the Lost Bay Beach Bar
Nice smaller harbour town in Istria - Lots of restaurants. Not a great beach but local Istralandia Waterpark is excellent
Novigrad Cittanova Istria
19 Ul. Istarskog RazvodaNice smaller harbour town in Istria - Lots of restaurants. Not a great beach but local Istralandia Waterpark is excellent
You may struggle to find this on a map as it is supposed to be the SMALLEST town in the world. Set in beautiful rolling valleys with stunning countryside colours in Autumn it is in the North East of Istria. It is no more than a small collection of very old buildings, but worth a wander if only to say you have been there.
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Hum
You may struggle to find this on a map as it is supposed to be the SMALLEST town in the world. Set in beautiful rolling valleys with stunning countryside colours in Autumn it is in the North East of Istria. It is no more than a small collection of very old buildings, but worth a wander if only to say you have been there.
Neighbourhoods
This is the headland area that you see from the
terrace of Suncaliste. The Hotel Histria has recently been refurbished and there are now a few nice
shops as well as places to eat within the complex. You can have a drink by the lower pool of the
Hotel Histria which is very nice. Verudela has a lovely walk around the coast with great views, some
lovely coves and beaches. Simply drive over and park up. Tennis courts and squash courts for hire.
Also Bunarina marina has a water taxi over to the island in the bay which is good fun.
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Verudela
VerudelaThis is the headland area that you see from the
terrace of Suncaliste. The Hotel Histria has recently been refurbished and there are now a few nice
shops as well as places to eat within the complex. You can have a drink by the lower pool of the
Hotel Histria which is very nice. Verudela has a lovely walk around the coast with great views, some
lovely coves and beaches. Simply drive over and park up. Tennis courts and squash courts for hire.
Also Bunarina marina has a water taxi over to the island in the bay which is good fun.
Pjescana Uvala is the place to relax. On your doorstep you have two beaches, various restaurants, a
marina and reasonable coastal walk around the bay to Banjole. The church above the apartment is
lovely, modern but there are good views from the roof!
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Pješčana Uvala
Pjescana Uvala is the place to relax. On your doorstep you have two beaches, various restaurants, a
marina and reasonable coastal walk around the bay to Banjole. The church above the apartment is
lovely, modern but there are good views from the roof!
Lovely Beach and Beach Bar, not far on the coast between Pjescana and Vinkuran. Either walk through Naturepark Soline - about 30 mins or take the car. There is a small car park by the beach bar and you have to exit Pjescana on the road to the Quarry (Cave Romane) and there is a turning down a gravel path on the right marked Soline.
Plaża Kamyczki
Lovely Beach and Beach Bar, not far on the coast between Pjescana and Vinkuran. Either walk through Naturepark Soline - about 30 mins or take the car. There is a small car park by the beach bar and you have to exit Pjescana on the road to the Quarry (Cave Romane) and there is a turning down a gravel path on the right marked Soline.
A one way road on the coast in Pula - on the road from Verudela to Stoja. 2nd road on the left after the stadium. Lots of places to park and climb down to flat rocks with access to the sea. Generally good clean/clear water. There is a sheltered beach which gets busy.
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Lungomare
LungomareA one way road on the coast in Pula - on the road from Verudela to Stoja. 2nd road on the left after the stadium. Lots of places to park and climb down to flat rocks with access to the sea. Generally good clean/clear water. There is a sheltered beach which gets busy.
Beautiful Beaches - beyond Stoja. Stoja itself is a small village with apartments and a small beach which is quite nice - often used by locals and the location of Kajak Tours. However if you keep going past the entrance to Stoja Campsite. The road on the right follows a small bay leading up into the forest where you can park. Keep walking over the other side of that headland and you will come to Beach Galbove
Stoja, 52100, Pula, Хорватія
Beautiful Beaches - beyond Stoja. Stoja itself is a small village with apartments and a small beach which is quite nice - often used by locals and the location of Kajak Tours. However if you keep going past the entrance to Stoja Campsite. The road on the right follows a small bay leading up into the forest where you can park. Keep walking over the other side of that headland and you will come to Beach Galbove
Small Village with lots of restaurants and a decent beach with good swimming. The pebbles are particularly sharp on your feet so swimming shoes very helpful
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Banjole Beach
Small Village with lots of restaurants and a decent beach with good swimming. The pebbles are particularly sharp on your feet so swimming shoes very helpful
A family favourite - very small beach, but sit on the rocks either side. Lovely clear water for swimming and a small bar in the woods to get a drink or ice cream
Beach Pinižule
A family favourite - very small beach, but sit on the rocks either side. Lovely clear water for swimming and a small bar in the woods to get a drink or ice cream
Sightseeing
– This small resort is the gateway to Cape Kamanjak. Some good restaurants and a few shops, however as you drive through the village, go straight on as the road narrows, rather than following the signs for the campsite and you will come across Kamanjak. Great for walks, but most pay
the entrance fee to take their cars onto the peninsula and then park up. The coves are beautiful and the water is clearer here than anywhere else in Istria. Pinizule is our favourite beach which appears as you leave the pine wooded area. Another area of interest is the cliffs by the Safari Bar towards the bottom of the peninsula. Here you will see cliff jumping of all different heights. Safari Bar is a lovely bar built into the tall grass with benches and tables made from carved tree trunks.
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Premantura
– This small resort is the gateway to Cape Kamanjak. Some good restaurants and a few shops, however as you drive through the village, go straight on as the road narrows, rather than following the signs for the campsite and you will come across Kamanjak. Great for walks, but most pay
the entrance fee to take their cars onto the peninsula and then park up. The coves are beautiful and the water is clearer here than anywhere else in Istria. Pinizule is our favourite beach which appears as you leave the pine wooded area. Another area of interest is the cliffs by the Safari Bar towards the bottom of the peninsula. Here you will see cliff jumping of all different heights. Safari Bar is a lovely bar built into the tall grass with benches and tables made from carved tree trunks.
Very Picturesque town with lovely coastal views. There is an interesting modern art sculpture park just outside which is worth a look. The harbour area of Vrsar is lovely. Great place to have a wander around maybe if you are heading from the Limski Canal. Good Bell Tower at the top of the town with lovely views over the islands.
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Vrsar
Very Picturesque town with lovely coastal views. There is an interesting modern art sculpture park just outside which is worth a look. The harbour area of Vrsar is lovely. Great place to have a wander around maybe if you are heading from the Limski Canal. Good Bell Tower at the top of the town with lovely views over the islands.
If you are in central Istria, you have to go here. Home of the Motovun Film Festival and birthplace of Mario Andretti, Formula 1 driver. It is a stunning hill top town with some of the most breathtaking views in the whole of Istria. Terraces of Olive groves and vineyards are all about and views of the Mirna River. Stop for a drink at the top of the hill, then walk the town walls all the way around and I
promise you will take photograph after photograph –
assuming you have a camera.
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Motovun
If you are in central Istria, you have to go here. Home of the Motovun Film Festival and birthplace of Mario Andretti, Formula 1 driver. It is a stunning hill top town with some of the most breathtaking views in the whole of Istria. Terraces of Olive groves and vineyards are all about and views of the Mirna River. Stop for a drink at the top of the hill, then walk the town walls all the way around and I
promise you will take photograph after photograph –
assuming you have a camera.
While Moscenika is the inland village –full of character houses and little alleyways, the star of the east coast in my opinion and possibly my favourite place on the east coast is Moscenika Draga. Vey picturesque harbour village, with two lovely beaches. It gets very busy in the summer so grab a car space if you see one. Out of season it is lovely and has a very laid back atmosphere.
Great to get a coffee and watch the day drift by. The little
path between the two beaches is worth a wander. Must get an ice cream along the way.
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Mošćenička Draga
While Moscenika is the inland village –full of character houses and little alleyways, the star of the east coast in my opinion and possibly my favourite place on the east coast is Moscenika Draga. Vey picturesque harbour village, with two lovely beaches. It gets very busy in the summer so grab a car space if you see one. Out of season it is lovely and has a very laid back atmosphere.
Great to get a coffee and watch the day drift by. The little
path between the two beaches is worth a wander. Must get an ice cream along the way.
To take the official trip to Brijuni, you need to travel to Fazana; a nice small town on the coast just above Pula. Fazana has character and plenty of restaurants and a town beach that shelves gently into the sea. The ferry to Brijuni leaves from the quay. Brijuni is a National Park, beautiful parklands, animals and a museum about President Josep Broz Tito, former president of Yugoslavia as it was after the WW2 and before the break up of Yugoslavia and the formation of independent nations in the Balkans. Brijuni was his summer residence.
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Бріюні Національний парк
10 Brionska ulicaTo take the official trip to Brijuni, you need to travel to Fazana; a nice small town on the coast just above Pula. Fazana has character and plenty of restaurants and a town beach that shelves gently into the sea. The ferry to Brijuni leaves from the quay. Brijuni is a National Park, beautiful parklands, animals and a museum about President Josep Broz Tito, former president of Yugoslavia as it was after the WW2 and before the break up of Yugoslavia and the formation of independent nations in the Balkans. Brijuni was his summer residence.
Red Island is a ferry boat away from Rovinj. Regular shuttle to the island. Can snorkel there, walk around the island or just relax and swim either by the hotels or perhaps on the other quieter side of the island
Windsurf center Red Island
Red Island is a ferry boat away from Rovinj. Regular shuttle to the island. Can snorkel there, walk around the island or just relax and swim either by the hotels or perhaps on the other quieter side of the island
Labin is a small town on the East Coast. Previously a mining town, the old town has lovely narrow streets leading up to a Bell Tower with great views down towards Rabac. There is a sculpture park in Labin and just north of the town, after Plomin the road hugs the coast providing stunning views of the East Coast towards Cres, Krk and Rijeka
Labin
Labin is a small town on the East Coast. Previously a mining town, the old town has lovely narrow streets leading up to a Bell Tower with great views down towards Rabac. There is a sculpture park in Labin and just north of the town, after Plomin the road hugs the coast providing stunning views of the East Coast towards Cres, Krk and Rijeka
Quite a busy Tourist town on the East Coast. Can get busy in height of the summer. However lots of little coves to swim in and water is particularly clear. Ideal if you want to see some of the East Coast, but do not want to go onto Moscenicka Draga - which I think is a little nicer.
Rabac
Quite a busy Tourist town on the East Coast. Can get busy in height of the summer. However lots of little coves to swim in and water is particularly clear. Ideal if you want to see some of the East Coast, but do not want to go onto Moscenicka Draga - which I think is a little nicer.
Opatija is at the top of the East Coast. A large coastal town with architecture from the Austro Hungarian times. Lots of hotels. Beaches not great. Shops including many expansive brands. A place to people watch and count the number of Ferraris! Be prepared to drive through a couple of times to find somewhere to park.
Opatija Riviera
Opatija is at the top of the East Coast. A large coastal town with architecture from the Austro Hungarian times. Lots of hotels. Beaches not great. Shops including many expansive brands. A place to people watch and count the number of Ferraris! Be prepared to drive through a couple of times to find somewhere to park.
Central Town in Istria. Really good Castle and lovely countryside around Pazin to explore such as Beram (frescos), Kotli (waterfall and watermill), Gracisce and Pican (both lovely small villages)
Pazin
Central Town in Istria. Really good Castle and lovely countryside around Pazin to explore such as Beram (frescos), Kotli (waterfall and watermill), Gracisce and Pican (both lovely small villages)
A lovely hill top town - accessed by car via a gravel path (about 10 mins). If you like arts and crafts, you will love Groznjan. Groznjan was a busy small town when under Austro Hungarian rule and like many of the towns in this area it was connected by the Parenzana Railway. However the last train on this line in 1935 (Mussolini had the line removed) meant many of the towns struggled. After WW2 Groznjan went further into decline. In 1965 it was declared a town of Artists and each inhabitant was allowed to live in the houses, so long as they took up an 'art'. You can now see painters, potters, jewellery makers, sculptures, clothes makers and there are between 30 and 40 artist houses to see.
Grisignana città
A lovely hill top town - accessed by car via a gravel path (about 10 mins). If you like arts and crafts, you will love Groznjan. Groznjan was a busy small town when under Austro Hungarian rule and like many of the towns in this area it was connected by the Parenzana Railway. However the last train on this line in 1935 (Mussolini had the line removed) meant many of the towns struggled. After WW2 Groznjan went further into decline. In 1965 it was declared a town of Artists and each inhabitant was allowed to live in the houses, so long as they took up an 'art'. You can now see painters, potters, jewellery makers, sculptures, clothes makers and there are between 30 and 40 artist houses to see.
Across the northern border through Slovenia and into Italy - about 2 hours away by road, is Duino. The castle is small but very beautiful located on the cliff overlooking the bay of Trieste. The gardens are lovely and the views from the castle wonderful. Under the castle are interesting cellars which had a role during the War with an interesting exhibition about this.
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Замок Дуїно
32 Frazione DuinoAcross the northern border through Slovenia and into Italy - about 2 hours away by road, is Duino. The castle is small but very beautiful located on the cliff overlooking the bay of Trieste. The gardens are lovely and the views from the castle wonderful. Under the castle are interesting cellars which had a role during the War with an interesting exhibition about this.
Across the Northern Border into Slovenia are Skocjan Caves - well worth a small detour from the main motorway through Slovenia. About 2 hours from Pula by road. The caves are wonderful and the path winds down through the caverns over a river that flows through the caves. There is a bridge that crosses from one side of the cavern to the other. If you do not like heights - suggest not to look over it, but it is small and not too bad. You end up at the bottom of the valley and can either walk back up the valley or take a cable car. If you struggle a little with walking the caves are a little tricky because of the height differential as you make your way down numerous steps - the reason it is as spectacular as it is.
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Шкочянські печери
12 MatavunAcross the Northern Border into Slovenia are Skocjan Caves - well worth a small detour from the main motorway through Slovenia. About 2 hours from Pula by road. The caves are wonderful and the path winds down through the caverns over a river that flows through the caves. There is a bridge that crosses from one side of the cavern to the other. If you do not like heights - suggest not to look over it, but it is small and not too bad. You end up at the bottom of the valley and can either walk back up the valley or take a cable car. If you struggle a little with walking the caves are a little tricky because of the height differential as you make your way down numerous steps - the reason it is as spectacular as it is.
Sloevnia has a very small coast and Piran is the best of it. - Beautiful Town. It is 'busy, but in a small kind of way', retaining its charm. The Church is lovely as is Tartini Square and a good place to watch the world go by. The best views are from the Town Walls at the back of the town and if you want to cool off, then there are sun platforms with access to the sea.
Piran station
Sloevnia has a very small coast and Piran is the best of it. - Beautiful Town. It is 'busy, but in a small kind of way', retaining its charm. The Church is lovely as is Tartini Square and a good place to watch the world go by. The best views are from the Town Walls at the back of the town and if you want to cool off, then there are sun platforms with access to the sea.
This is a stunning Island - connected by Ferry from the East Coast of Istria. We spent a week there. Beautiful scenary (Lubenice). Lovely places to visit. Bali - with its Museum about the Griffon Vultures, Cres Town - delightful. Some of the clearest water for swimming at Martinscica. If you have time head down to Losinj. Its a one way trip and worth it.
Cres
This is a stunning Island - connected by Ferry from the East Coast of Istria. We spent a week there. Beautiful scenary (Lubenice). Lovely places to visit. Bali - with its Museum about the Griffon Vultures, Cres Town - delightful. Some of the clearest water for swimming at Martinscica. If you have time head down to Losinj. Its a one way trip and worth it.
What a village. Almost all the houses and restaurants have a riverside view, waterfalls everywhere. Its a quiet place in the morning and evening but gets visitors during the day so can be busy in high season. One of the most memorable places we have stayed.
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Історичний центр Растоке
2 RastokeWhat a village. Almost all the houses and restaurants have a riverside view, waterfalls everywhere. Its a quiet place in the morning and evening but gets visitors during the day so can be busy in high season. One of the most memorable places we have stayed.
Beyond Prementura - see entry for that. About a 15 min drive by road from Pula. A wonderful Natural Park area. There is an entrance fee. Places to walk, Beaches to discover, Cliffs to jump from and of course Safari Bar
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Kamenjak
Beyond Prementura - see entry for that. About a 15 min drive by road from Pula. A wonderful Natural Park area. There is an entrance fee. Places to walk, Beaches to discover, Cliffs to jump from and of course Safari Bar
The star attraction of Pula. Understated as tourist attractions go and that is why its special. Very good museum in the vaults (place where the gladiators once stood). Just look around and then take a seat and watch the world go by. Been fortunate enough to see concerts in the Amphitheatre and its also special at night.
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Арена Пула
bb Flavijevska ul.The star attraction of Pula. Understated as tourist attractions go and that is why its special. Very good museum in the vaults (place where the gladiators once stood). Just look around and then take a seat and watch the world go by. Been fortunate enough to see concerts in the Amphitheatre and its also special at night.
Really good waterpark in Porec. Lovely grounds, plenty of places to lounge on a lounger. Rides of varying degrees of scariness and a lazy river, wave pool and indoor water cave to get a drink. Cafes available.
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Aquapark Aquacolors Porec
Really good waterpark in Porec. Lovely grounds, plenty of places to lounge on a lounger. Rides of varying degrees of scariness and a lazy river, wave pool and indoor water cave to get a drink. Cafes available.
Aquapark just outside Novigrad North Istria. 75 mins from Pula by road. Really good park - lots of varying rides or pools simply to relax in.
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Aquapark Istralandia
1 Ul. RonkiAquapark just outside Novigrad North Istria. 75 mins from Pula by road. Really good park - lots of varying rides or pools simply to relax in.
Underground tunnels in Pula. Worth a look - history provided on description boards. It doesnt take long to visit. Also has the added benefit of being lovely and cool on a hot Istrian day in August!
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Zerostrasse
3 Carrarina ul.Underground tunnels in Pula. Worth a look - history provided on description boards. It doesnt take long to visit. Also has the added benefit of being lovely and cool on a hot Istrian day in August!
Plitvice is simply incredible. It is about a 4 hour journey from Pula, so we made a trip of it, staying in Senj on the coast the night before leaving us an hour from the park and Rastoke (also amazing) about 20 minutes from Plitvice the day we saw the lakes. The lakes are a protected natural habitat and consist of many lakes interlinked with waterfalls. There are boardwalks to walk around and a few boats to take you across the lakes. It gets very busy in the summer months and ironically this is not the best time to see them because the flow of water is less - but IRRESPECTIVE of this - still an amazing place to visit.
Plitvicka Jezera, 53231, Плитвиця-Село, Хорватія
Plitvice is simply incredible. It is about a 4 hour journey from Pula, so we made a trip of it, staying in Senj on the coast the night before leaving us an hour from the park and Rastoke (also amazing) about 20 minutes from Plitvice the day we saw the lakes. The lakes are a protected natural habitat and consist of many lakes interlinked with waterfalls. There are boardwalks to walk around and a few boats to take you across the lakes. It gets very busy in the summer months and ironically this is not the best time to see them because the flow of water is less - but IRRESPECTIVE of this - still an amazing place to visit.
Everybody Knows of Venice. You can get there by hydrofoil from Istria or by driving; both about 3.5 hours away. Stunning city.
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
Everybody Knows of Venice. You can get there by hydrofoil from Istria or by driving; both about 3.5 hours away. Stunning city.
Food scene
I can highly recommend organising some wine tasting with the Deklić family at their vineyard up near Motovun. We had a wonderful time sampling their wines, eating local hams, cheeses, and olives etc. while listening to the history of the family, the wine they produce and the importance of the generations of their family in the production of their wine. A delightful experience in beautiful surroundings.
Vina Deklić
I can highly recommend organising some wine tasting with the Deklić family at their vineyard up near Motovun. We had a wonderful time sampling their wines, eating local hams, cheeses, and olives etc. while listening to the history of the family, the wine they produce and the importance of the generations of their family in the production of their wine. A delightful experience in beautiful surroundings.
This company have arranged tours around their Olive Groves just north of Pula. We spent a lovely evening experiencing their 'Evening under the Olives' with the family and would strongly recommend it. Learning all about Olives, the art of producing quality olive oil, a gentle stroll around the groves followed by food and sharing companionship with other guests all no doubt enjoying the experience as much as we did.
Meloto Extra Virgin Olive Oil
40 Trgovačka ulicaThis company have arranged tours around their Olive Groves just north of Pula. We spent a lovely evening experiencing their 'Evening under the Olives' with the family and would strongly recommend it. Learning all about Olives, the art of producing quality olive oil, a gentle stroll around the groves followed by food and sharing companionship with other guests all no doubt enjoying the experience as much as we did.